In 1938, the world was on the brink of World War II, with the lingering effects of the Great Depression still palpable. This was a period marked by a desire for escapism and glamour amidst uncertainties and hardships. The fashion and beauty industries often responded to such times by offering products that promised a temporary reprieve from reality, allowing people to indulge in fantasies and pleasures. "Intoxication" by Parfums D'Orsay was launched during this era, embodying this very spirit of escapism and allure. Notably, this was also a few years after the end of Prohibition in the United States, a time when society was embracing newfound freedoms and celebrating the return of legal alcohol consumption, which added to the zeitgeist of indulgence and revelry.
Parfums D'Orsay choosing the name "Intoxication" for their perfume speaks volumes about the emotional and sensory experience they aimed to evoke. The word "intoxication" suggests a state of being overwhelmed by powerful feelings or sensations, often associated with love and passion. In connection with love, "intoxication" conveys the idea of being so deeply enamored and consumed by another person that one feels a heady, almost dizzying sense of euphoria. This is an apt metaphor for a fragrance, which has the power to evoke strong emotional responses and create lasting impressions. In the context of the post-Prohibition era, the name also hints at a liberated, joyous embrace of pleasure and indulgence.
"Intoxication" is an appropriate name for a perfume because it encapsulates the transformative and alluring nature of fragrances. Perfume can create an almost magical effect, enhancing one's presence and evoking deep-seated emotions and memories. A scent that claims to intoxicate suggests that it can captivate and enthrall, much like the feeling of falling in love or being swept away by a powerful emotion. The end of Prohibition had seen a resurgence in nightlife and social gatherings, where people sought to enjoy themselves freely, and a perfume named "Intoxication" would perfectly complement this atmosphere of revelry.
In the context of perfumery, "Intoxication" relates to the concept of creating a compelling and irresistible fragrance. Perfumers aim to craft scents that can evoke strong, almost addictive responses. The name implies that the perfume has a potent and unforgettable quality, designed to leave a lasting impression on those who encounter it.
"Intoxication, the champagne fragrance that whispers 'Someone lovely has just passed by' wearing Intoxication".
The type of women who would have related to a fragrance called "Intoxication" in 1938 would likely be those seeking a sense of glamour and allure in their lives. These women might be confident, daring, and unafraid to embrace their sensuality. They would respond to the fragrance with a sense of excitement and empowerment, seeing it as a tool to enhance their charm and captivate those around them. In the lively social scene of the post-Prohibition era, such a perfume would resonate with women who enjoyed the newfound freedom and the celebratory spirit of the times.
The word "intoxication" evokes images of a luxurious, almost decadent experience. It suggests a state of blissful abandon, where one's senses are heightened, and ordinary concerns fade away. Feelings of passion, desire, and rapture are all associated with the term, making it a powerful and evocative choice for a perfume name. The imagery it conjures includes scenes of romantic evenings, glamorous soirées, and moments of intense emotional connection. Such a name promises an olfactory experience that is both alluring and unforgettable, appealing to those who seek to add a touch of magic to their everyday lives. The end of Prohibition had brought about a renewed appreciation for life's pleasures, and "Intoxication" by Parfums D'Orsay would have perfectly captured this celebratory and indulgent spirit.
Captivating Drama:
In 1942, newspaper advertisements revealed the dramatic and captivating story behind the launch of Intoxication by Parfums D'Orsay, a perfume entwined with intrigue, adventure, and romance. Described as "the toast of the year's rare perfumes," Intoxication was presented as a "pirouette of heady, potent fragrance that goes straight to the heart," boasting both a promising future and a tumultuous past. Initially poised for a glittering debut, the perfume's introduction was abruptly postponed with the onset of World War II. For months, all was quiet, and the perfume seemed abandoned.
The suspense heightened when the New York offices of D'Orsay received a mysterious package smuggled out of Paris. Inside, wrapped in coded papers, was the beautiful jewel-cut flacon, though it was empty. Shortly after, a letter from Buenos Aires arrived with the key to the code: the formula for the perfume. This revelation marked the beginning of Intoxication's journey from wartime secrecy to public debut.
Another advertisement from 1942 detailed the perfume's dramatic escape from war-torn Paris. Back in 1939, the perfumers at the House of D'Orsay had successfully blended a heady and intoxicating new scent. However, the German invasion of Paris halted its introduction, and the formula seemingly vanished. Efforts to secure the formula from America went unanswered, and the formula appeared to be lost. Finally, a tattered parcel arrived in New York, containing a picture of the flacon and a list of numbered ingredients without quantities. Shortly thereafter, a list of these quantities arrived from Buenos Aires. By matching these two lists, the secret formula for Intoxication was revealed.
Now, three years later, Intoxication emerged as a true "war-baby" perfume, bonded in intrigue and adventure. The narrative of its creation and survival through desperate times added an extra layer of allure to its already intoxicating scent. The advertisements celebrated this remarkable journey, inviting consumers to partake in the romance and mystery encapsulated in each bottle of Intoxication.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral chypre fragrance for women. A delicious mingle of carnation, roses, lavender, lily of the valley, jasmine and warm spices.
- Top notes: narcissus, aldehydes, bergamot oil, lemon, mandarin orange, neroli, geranium, syringa
- Middle notes: cinnamon, clove, lavender, mimosa, gardenia, tuberose, lily of the valley, lavender, jasmine, rose, orange blossom, ylang ylang, nutmeg, coriander, carnation, orris
- Base notes: civet, ambergris, oakmoss, vanilla, benzoin, tonka bean, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, styrax, cedar, Brazilian rosewood, coumarin, linalyl, opoponax
"..it goes to your heart...Intoxication..the pulse stirring perfume by D'Orsay".
Southeastern Drug Journal ... - Volume 21 - Page 81, 1946:
"Parfum D'Orsay's Intoxication perfume and toilet water, perfume from $5.50 to $35."
Scent Story: Intoxication: A Tale from the New York Office of D'Orsay, 1942:
In the bustling heart of 1942 New York City, the D'Orsay office in the Coty building hummed with an undercurrent of anticipation. As an employee of the perfumery, I had been swept into a story woven with suspense, intrigue, and the enduring allure of fragrance. The year had seen the world teetering on the edge of war, yet within these walls, a different kind of battle was being fought—a battle to revive a perfume that seemed to have been lost to the annals of history.
The story of Intoxication began back in 1939 in Paris. The master perfumers at the House of D'Orsay had successfully blended a heady and intoxicating new scent, a spicy floral chypre for women. This perfume was a delicious mingle of carnation, roses, lavender, lily of the valley, jasmine, and warm spices, a fragrance that promised to enchant and captivate. The top notes sparkled with narcissus, aldehydes, bergamot oil, lemon, mandarin orange, neroli, geranium, and syringa. The heart of the perfume beat with cinnamon, clove, lavender, mimosa, gardenia, tuberose, lily of the valley, jasmine, rose, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, nutmeg, coriander, carnation, and orris. The base notes lingered with civet, ambergris, oakmoss, vanilla, benzoin, tonka bean, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, styrax, cedar, Brazilian rosewood, coumarin, linalyl, and opoponax. Each ingredient was carefully selected to create a scent that was both mesmerizing and unforgettable.
However, as the German tanks rolled into Paris, the introduction of Intoxication was abruptly halted. The formula, which had been poised for a glittering debut, vanished amidst the chaos of war. Efforts to secure the formula from America went unanswered, and for months, all was quiet. The perfume seemed abandoned, a casualty of the times.
That was until one fateful afternoon when a mysterious package arrived at our New York office, smuggled out of occupied Paris. Wrapped in coded papers, the beautiful jewel-cut flacon emerged, empty yet filled with promise. The multi-prismed bottle, with its conical base molded to resemble a pleated skirt, gleamed under the office lights. Its matching stopper, placed upside down, created a striking symmetry that captured the essence of the perfume's name.
As I unwrapped the package, the air seemed charged with anticipation. The scent of old parchment and the faint, lingering aroma of the empty flacon filled the room. My fingers traced the intricate serrations of the bottle, marveling at its craftsmanship. The office buzzed with whispers as we tried to decipher the coded papers, each one of us keenly aware of the significance of this moment.
Days turned into weeks, and then another package arrived—this time from Buenos Aires. Inside was the key to the code, the formula for the perfume. The letter included a list of numbered quantities that matched the ingredients previously received. It was like putting together the pieces of a long-lost puzzle. As we matched the two lists, the secret formula for Intoxication was revealed, igniting a sense of triumph and relief.
The office filled with the scent of celebration as we began the process of recreating Intoxication. The top notes brought a burst of freshness: the bright, citrusy zing of lemon and mandarin orange mingled with the sweet, floral hints of narcissus, neroli, and geranium. As the heart notes unfolded, a warm, spicy bouquet enveloped us. The rich aromas of cinnamon and clove danced with the floral elegance of mimosa, gardenia, and tuberose, while the heady scents of jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang added depth and complexity. Finally, the base notes settled, filling the room with a warm, comforting blend of vanilla, benzoin, and tonka bean, intertwined with the earthy tones of patchouli, vetiver, and sandalwood. The musky, animalic notes of civet and ambergris lent a touch of sensuality, while the woody undertones of cedar and Brazilian rosewood provided a grounding presence.
As I breathed in the intoxicating scent, I could almost taste the rich, layered flavors that seemed to dance on my tongue. The office buzzed with the sounds of excitement and accomplishment—papers rustling, colleagues murmuring in awe, and the soft clink of glass as we carefully poured the precious liquid into its jewel-cut flacons.
Touching the smooth, cool glass of the bottle, I felt a profound connection to the perfumers in Paris who had created this masterpiece and to the adventurers who had risked everything to bring it to us. The story of Intoxication was one of resilience, courage, and an unwavering passion for beauty. It was a testament to the power of fragrance to transcend even the darkest of times, to carry with it the whispers of love, adventure, and intrigue.
And now, as we prepared to share Intoxication with the world, I knew that every drop of this perfume carried with it the essence of its remarkable journey—a true war-baby perfume, bonded in intrigue, adventure, and romance. Here's to it!
Bottles:
The multi-prismed bottle for Intoxication's Parfum, manufactured by Verreries Brosse, is a stunning example of elegant craftsmanship. Its base, conical in shape, features serrations that artfully mimic the look of a pleated skirt, giving it a refined yet playful appearance. The matching stopper is designed in the same intricate style but placed upside down, creating a harmonious yet intriguing symmetry. This sophisticated design captures the essence of the perfume's name, suggesting an allure that is both mesmerizing and captivating. The Parfum was initially available in 1 oz and 1/2 oz sizes in 1942, each bottle a tiny masterpiece of glasswork.
Adding to the allure of the Parfum was its packaging. The carnival-themed design of the box, supplied by Karl Voss, was deemed "appropriate and gay," infusing a touch of festive cheer into the luxurious packaging. The lively design of the box complemented the opulent bottle, creating an overall presentation that was as delightful to behold as it was to use. This festive yet sophisticated packaging heightened the sense of celebration and luxury associated with the fragrance.
In 1947, the exquisite bottle design was adapted into a miniature version without losing any of its beauty or charm. These smaller containers, holding 1/4 oz of Parfum, were manufactured by Carr-Lowrey. They maintained the multi-prismed elegance of the original, allowing the same level of sophistication in a more petite form. The miniaturized bottles continued to captivate with their intricate design, ensuring that even the smaller versions of Intoxication retained their allure.
The bottle design was also modified for the Eau de Toilette version of Intoxication. Initially available only in a four-ounce capacity in 1942, the Eau de Toilette bottle maintained the graceful aesthetic of its Parfum counterpart. In 1946, the Eau de Toilette was made available for the first time in two-ounce sizes, catering to a broader range of customers. The graceful four-ounce jewel-cut flacon, which had been unobtainable during the war, became available again in 1946, much to the delight of perfume enthusiasts. This flacon, with its jewel-like facets, continued the theme of refined elegance, ensuring that the Intoxication Eau de Toilette remained as visually appealing as the original Parfum.
The design of the Intoxication bottles and packaging reflects the overall theme of luxury and indulgence. The intricate multi-prismed and jewel-cut designs evoke a sense of sophistication and glamour, perfectly aligning with the intoxicating allure of the fragrance itself. Whether in the original conical shape or the modified Eau de Toilette version, each bottle captures the essence of the era's desire for beauty and escapism, making Intoxication not just a perfume, but a sensory experience. The attention to detail in both the bottle and the packaging underscores the meticulous craftsmanship and the romantic story behind the fragrance, offering a glimpse into a world of elegance and timeless charm.
Product Line:
In 1948, the Intoxication product line expanded to include a variety of luxurious offerings, each designed to bring the enchanting fragrance into different aspects of daily life. The Intoxication Parfum was available in three sizes within the elegant multi-prismed bottle, continuing to captivate with its intricate design and sophisticated allure.
Adding to the line was the Intoxication "Sachet Concentrate," a powder sachet that brought the magic of Intoxication into the realm of personal and home care. Perfect for scenting closets and lingerie drawers, this product infused everyday spaces with its heavenly fragrance, adding a touch of elegance to the ordinary.
The Intoxication Toilet Water came in a plain, square-shaped splash bottle. This straightforward design allowed for easy application, making it a practical yet still luxurious option for daily use. For those seeking a delicate and refined scent experience, the Intoxication Bath Powder provided a soft and fluffy texture, enhancing the daintiness and allure of post-bath rituals.
The Intoxication Bath Essence offered another way to indulge in the perfume's intoxicating scent. This essence transformed bathwater into a fragrant oasis, allowing for a truly immersive and relaxing experience.
Finally, the Intoxication "Parfum Pursette" introduced a convenient yet elegant solution for carrying the perfume. Encased in a purse bottle designed to prevent leaks, the Parfum Pursette came in a chic black or gold-tone bag, perfect for on-the-go elegance. This practical and stylish addition ensured that the enchanting fragrance of Intoxication could be easily accessed and enjoyed throughout the day.
Together, these products created a comprehensive and luxurious line that brought the intoxicating charm of Intoxication into every facet of personal care and daily life, reflecting the continued commitment to elegance and sophistication that defined the brand.
The product line for Intoxication by D'Orsay continued to expand and innovate beyond 1948, introducing a variety of new formats and packaging designs that enhanced the luxurious experience of the fragrance.
In 1950, the Intoxication "Solidette" was introduced. This unique product was a bar of solid, non-liquid toilet water, distinctly not a cologne. Packaged in a jar with a swirl design, the Solidette featured a foil label and a plastic cap, combining practicality with aesthetic appeal.
By 1955, the line included "Bain de Luxe," a foaming bath oil. This product offered a lavish bathing experience, allowing users to indulge in the scent of Intoxication while enjoying the luxurious foam and soothing properties of the bath oil.
In 1958, the "Press-Scent" was launched, a refillable, leak-proof purse atomizer that held 300 measured sprays. This innovative product catered to the modern, on-the-go woman, providing convenience and elegance in one package.
By 1963, Intoxication was available in several new formats:
- Intoxication Cologne Mist: Offered in heavy, serrated glass bottles of 3 oz or 1.5 oz with a gold-finished cap, these bottles were designed to be both beautiful and functional on a dressing table.
- Intoxication Dramatizer Perfume: This 1/4 oz spray atomizer came in a non-tarnish silver case, ensuring no spills and no precious drops wasted.
- Intoxication Eau de Toilette: Available in a 1 oz bottle with a gift atomizer at no extra cost, and also in beautifully gift-boxed 2 oz and 4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash versions.
- Intoxication "Daily Double": This set included 1 oz of Eau de Toilette and a 1/8 oz purse-size flacon of perfume, offering versatility and convenience.
- Intoxication Parfum: Available in either 1/4 oz or 1/8 oz sizes, continuing the tradition of offering this luxurious fragrance in beautifully crafted bottles.
By 1967, the Intoxication line had further expanded to include:
- Intoxication "Body Luv": A moisturizing body lotion that allowed for the luxurious scent to be part of daily skincare routines.
- Intoxication "Mist Unique" Eau de Toilette Spray: Packaged in a 1.5 oz fluted clear glass bottle with a gold-tone cap, this product added a touch of elegance to everyday use.
- Intoxication "Poudre de Bain": An after-bath dusting powder that provided a delicate and refined scent.
- Bath Oil: Another indulgent option for a luxurious bathing experience.
Each addition to the Intoxication product line reflected a commitment to elegance and innovation, ensuring that the fragrance could be enjoyed in a variety of ways and contexts. Whether through solid perfumes, moisturizing lotions, or beautifully designed spray bottles, Intoxication remained a versatile and beloved choice for those seeking sophistication and allure.
In 1970, D'Orsay breathed new life into Intoxication, possibly reformulating and relaunching the iconic fragrance in modernized packaging. This revitalized version of Intoxication was offered in a range of sizes and formats to appeal to a diverse clientele, ensuring that there was an option for every preference and occasion.
The Parfum was available in multiple sizes: 1/7 oz, 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 1 oz, catering to those who desired the purest form of the fragrance. For added convenience and elegance, a 1/4 oz Parfum Mist was introduced, allowing for a delicate and precise application.
For those who preferred a lighter version of the scent, Intoxication was also available as a Parfum de Toilette. This came in a 2 oz and a 4 oz Splash, perfect for generous applications that enveloped the wearer in the alluring fragrance. Additionally, a 2 oz Parfum de Toilette Natural Spray offered a more portable and user-friendly option, ideal for on-the-go spritzing.
The 3 oz Eau de Toilette Spray Mist was housed in a frosted glass bottle, marrying practicality with aesthetic appeal. This elegant packaging ensured that the fragrance could be enjoyed in a refined and sophisticated manner, whether displayed on a vanity or carried in a handbag.
The reformulated Intoxication was an aldehydic floral composition, featuring a harmonious blend of bergamot, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, hyacinth, a touch of spices, and green notes. This modern take on the classic scent maintained the intoxicating allure of the original while introducing a fresh and contemporary twist. The inclusion of aldehydes added a sparkling, effervescent quality to the fragrance, enhancing its floral heart and creating a vibrant, uplifting experience.
Overall, the 1970 relaunch of Intoxication by D'Orsay represented a perfect blend of tradition and innovation, offering a luxurious and versatile range of products that continued to captivate and enchant perfume enthusiasts.
Intoxication by D'Orsay, a once-celebrated fragrance, was discontinued around 1977, marking the end of an era for this iconic scent. By 1981, the Fragrance Foundation confirmed that Intoxication was no longer being produced, signaling the end of its official run in the market.
However, before the fragrance completely vanished from the scene, a stroke of luck allowed enthusiasts to still acquire it. Two firms, recognizing the value of the remaining old stock, purchased the last available bottles of Intoxication along with other discontinued D'Orsay fragrances. These bottles, a testament to the perfume’s enduring allure, were subsequently distributed in the USA.
Colonia of Largo Park, Stamford, Connecticut, and a New York distributing firm took on the task of selling these remaining stocks. They utilized catalogs to reach customers, offering a rare opportunity for collectors and fragrance aficionados to obtain the vintage Intoxication. Once this old stock was sold off, it marked the definitive end of Intoxication's availability in the market.
I recently purchased a cello sealed full 2 fl.oz flacon of 'Intoxication' parfum, the packaging is circa mid 1960's with a detachable plinth and slip cover, almost Chanel by design with cream quilted paper board and gold script. Haven't opened it yet, one more for the stockpile & that inevitable rainy day 'lol'
ReplyDeleteI am 95 years old and still can dream of this marvelous fragrance...First gift of the Cologne was from a GI leaving for service in England, 1942. Bitter sweet memories. Betty Glenn
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