Launched in 1915, Mystère by D'Orsay is a fragrance that immediately intrigues through its name, evoking an aura of secrecy, elegance, and the allure of the unknown. The word "Mystère" is French, pronounced mee-STEHR, and translates to "mystery" in English. This term, with its soft, flowing sound, brings to mind something veiled or concealed, and hints at an enigmatic allure. In the context of fragrance, it suggests something hidden beneath the surface, waiting to be discovered—a scent that entices and captivates, but keeps its full essence somewhat elusive. It evokes imagery of dark velvet drapes, secret garden paths, and the thrill of exploration, conjuring emotions of curiosity and seduction.
The year 1915 falls within the period known as the Belle Époque, which lasted from the late 19th century into the early 20th century. This was a time of significant cultural and social upheaval, as World War I raged in Europe. The horrors of war contrasted with the artistic and cultural flourishing in many areas, particularly in fashion and the arts. In the realm of fashion, women were transitioning from the more ornate, structured designs of the 19th century to more fluid, less restrictive styles. The hobble skirt, popularized by designers like Paul Poiret, gave way to more comfortable and loose-fitting gowns. Women of the time also embraced luxury, sophistication, and an understated, yet unmistakable elegance. Accessories such as long gloves, delicate hats, and fine jewelry remained staples of high society. This was a time of contrasts: outwardly, the world was in turmoil, but there was also a marked desire for beauty, opulence, and a sense of mystery.
A fragrance like Mystère would resonate deeply with women of this time. Amidst the chaos of global conflict, perfumes like Mystère offered an escape—a connection to personal luxury, self-expression, and refinement. The name "Mystère" would have appealed to the romantic and sophisticated side of women who sought to capture an aura of mystique in their daily lives. It conjured an image of a woman who was confident, elusive, and perhaps a little daring. This perfume would have been something for women to wear when they wished to embody elegance while keeping their inner world a secret—evoking an air of mystery in a period where the complexities of identity and society were in flux.
In terms of scent, Mystère is classified as an aromatic oriental fragrance with a warm, spicy, woody chypre base. This genre of fragrance was popular for centuries and was gaining increased traction at the time, but Mystère’s combination of bergamot, ginger, cinnamon, rose, geranium, and a rich base of patchouli, oakmoss, musk, amber, vanilla, sandalwood, and leather set it apart. The warm, spicy, and woody elements align with the era’s growing interest in more exotic, sensual scents. Yet, it was also reflective of the chypre family of fragrances, which had already gained popularity through perfumes like Chypre by Coty (1917). While it might not have been entirely unique, its emphasis on creating an intimate, mysterious character through the blending of spicy, warm, and earthy notes aligned well with the heightened sophistication of early 20th-century tastes.
In a market filled with fragrances like Jicky by Guerlain, which emphasized floral notes with a distinctively bold, powdery touch, and Fougère Royale (also by Houbigant) with its crisp, fern-like qualities, Mystère stood as a more sensually enigmatic option, drawing on the exotic, the opulent, and the hidden. Women of the time, accustomed to the notion of perfumes as not just scents but as expressions of identity and status, would have found the name "Mystère" both fitting and tantalizing. It promised a fragrance that was not just about scent, but about creating an aura—an experience that spoke to a deeper, more personal part of the wearer.
Ultimately, Mystère was not just a perfume; it was a reflection of the time, an embodiment of the desires for mystery, allure, and femininity that permeated the world of 1915. It captured the attention of women who desired more than just a fragrance—they sought a scent that represented their complex inner world, offering an escape into elegance and mystery, even amidst the challenging realities of the era.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aromatic oriental fragrance for women with a warm spicy, woody chypre base.
- Top notes: neroli, lavender, petitgrain, bergamot and ginger
- Middle notes: cinnamon, rose, geranium, clove, ylang ylang, jasmine, orris
- Base notes: patchouli, oakmoss, musk, ambergris, vanilla, myrrh, sandalwood, leather, civet, labdanum, vetiver, styrax, cedar, tonka bean
La Femme Chic, 1945:
"Another success that is asserting itself is Mystere, the latest of the D'Orsay perfumes and perhaps the most attractive of all. This warm and enveloping fragrance is both very strong and very discreet. It has no exaggerated or flashy notes; like its elders, it is a perfume of beautiful hold and exceptional quality. We appreciated a strange, truly mysterious side in him, which sets him apart and in some way at the forefront of modern essences."
Scent Profile:
The opening of Mystère is a dazzling, yet soothing experience. The neroli greets the senses with its delicate, citrusy floral aroma—fresh and luminous, like the first rays of sunlight breaking through the haze of dawn. It's both sweet and green, with a touch of bitterness that adds a sophisticated complexity. Almost immediately, the sharpness of bergamot adds a lively, sparkling burst of citrus, its zesty brightness cutting through the air like a clear morning breeze.
This is tempered by the crisp, green sharpness of petitgrain, its slightly bitter, leafy quality offering an herbaceous depth. As the top notes develop, lavender unfurls with its calming, soothing aroma, soft and herbaceous with a hint of fresh flowers in the background. The addition of ginger introduces a lively, warm spiciness—a dash of heat and energy that ignites the senses and sharpens the citrus edge. It creates a harmonious opening that is at once invigorating and soothing, inviting the wearer into the fragrance with a breath of fresh, spicy air.
As the fragrance evolves, the middle notes of Mystère weave a captivating, spicy floral bouquet that carries the warmth and intrigue of the perfume further. Cinnamon is the first to captivate the senses—a warm, spicy swirl of sweet heat that fills the air, crackling with a hint of sweetness and a touch of earthiness, like an exotic spice market. It is deepened by the delicate presence of clove, whose sharp, cloying spiciness punctuates the composition, adding a layer of complexity and intensity.
At the same time, the heart of the fragrance blooms with the soft, romantic sweetness of rose, its velvety petals unfolding slowly in the warmth, with a powdery sweetness that envelops the senses. Complementing the rose is geranium, with its green, slightly peppery scent, providing a crisp contrast to the rich floral notes, lending the perfume a touch of herbal freshness. Ylang-ylang introduces an exotic, creamy floral richness—sensual and heady, like a tropical blossom at the height of summer, adding layers of sweetness and mystery.
Jasmine comes next, adding its intoxicating, warm floral essence, lush and slightly indolic, with an almost animalic richness that deepens the perfume’s complexity. Finally, orris, with its powdery, rooty note, wraps the bouquet in a soft, elegant veil, grounding the florals with its subtle, almost nostalgic scent.
As the fragrance settles, Mystère reveals its warm, woody, and spicy base, a complex symphony of ingredients that provides both depth and richness. Patchouli emerges first—earthy, slightly sweet, and deeply aromatic, it offers an exotic, grounding quality, with an almost mystical warmth. It is complemented by oakmoss, whose damp, earthy undertones bring to mind a forest floor, with a fresh, slightly woody scent that adds complexity to the fragrance’s base.
Musk follows, its animalic warmth creating a sensual, intimate foundation that clings to the skin, adding a layer of seductive softness. The unmistakable scent of ambergris adds a salty, warm, slightly sweet undertone that rounds out the base with a luxurious, oceanic richness. Vanilla introduces a comforting sweetness, its creamy, warm presence adding a touch of smoothness and coziness to the base, balancing the sharpness of the other ingredients.
Myrrh brings an incense-like, resinous quality, smoky and earthy, with a hint of bitter sweetness—an ancient, sacred note that deepens the fragrance with an air of mystery. Sandalwood provides a soft, creamy woodiness, its smooth, warm scent exuding comfort and sensuality. The addition of leather infuses the base with a subtle, animalic depth—smooth, yet rugged, adding a tactile, almost tactile sensation that echoes the elegance of a finely crafted glove.
As the fragrance continues to unfold, the rich, animalic qualities of civet emerge, contributing a warm, musky, almost honeyed aspect that wraps the wearer in a sensual aura. Labdanum brings a resinous, balsamic sweetness, deep and warm, with a touch of leathery smokiness. The presence of vetiver adds a fresh, earthy, green quality, grounding the base with its woody, slightly smoky notes, evoking the richness of the earth beneath the feet.
Styrax deepens the fragrance with its resinous, balsamic warmth, offering a smoky, slightly sweet undertone that complements the vanilla and myrrh. Cedar brings a dry, woody, almost sharp note that adds a fresh, crisp quality, evoking the image of tall, green trees towering in the distance. Finally, tonka bean softens the base with its sweet, nutty richness, reminiscent of almond and vanilla, lending an enveloping warmth that lasts on the skin long after the fragrance has settled.
Together, these base notes create a captivating, complex trail that lingers—intimate, warm, and sensual, leaving behind an impression of sophistication and mystery.
Bottles:
Mystere was housed in a black crystal flacon by Rene Lalique.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Launched in 1915, Mystère by D'Orsay quickly became a celebrated fragrance, capturing the essence of elegance, mystery, and sensuality. With its elegant aromatic oriental composition, it stood as a timeless symbol of the sophistication that defined the early 20th century. As the world around it shifted, so too did the tastes of fragrance lovers. Mystère, with its rich, spicy, and woody character, resonated with women seeking complexity and luxury during a time when society was still reeling from the effects of World War I, yet indulging in moments of personal refinement. Over the decades, as trends in perfume evolved, it's likely that Mystère underwent subtle reformulations, adapting to the changing preferences of its audience. The world of perfume was continuously evolving, with modern notes emerging and the taste for certain ingredients shifting, perhaps leading D'Orsay to tweak Mystère to remain relevant while still retaining the core essence that made it a beloved classic.
The perfume's popularity, sustained through the 1920s and into the mid-century, speaks to the depth and timeless appeal of its composition. By the time the 1960s arrived, Mystère was still a cherished fragrance, with its complex layers of spice, floral, and earthy notes offering a sensuous contrast to the more minimalist fragrances that were beginning to dominate the market. The continued availability of Mystère into 1969 suggests that it had secured a dedicated following, one that appreciated its bold, multifaceted character. However, by 1978, Mystère had disappeared from the perfume counters, marking the end of an era for the fragrance. It was not uncommon for perfumes to be discontinued as new trends and advancements in fragrance composition emerged, but the loss of Mystère left a void for those who had come to associate its scent with elegance and mystery.
While its official discontinuation date remains uncertain, the fact that Mystère was still being sold in 1969 suggests it maintained a degree of relevance throughout several decades, carefully adjusting to the whims of changing fashions while never losing its core identity. Over time, it faded from the public eye, much like the quieter, more subtle notes of the perfume that had originally captured the heart of an entire generation. Despite its absence, Mystère remains a fragrance evocative of its time, a reminder of a period when luxury and the pursuit of beauty were intricately woven into the fabric of daily life.
Author's Note: Mystère by D'Orsay should not be confused with the 1978 fragrance Mystère by Rochas, a completely different creation that emerged over six decades later. While both share the same evocative name, the two perfumes are distinct in their compositions, concepts, and the eras they represent.
The original Mystère by D'Orsay, launched in 1915, was an aromatic oriental fragrance with a warm, spicy, and woody chypre base, reflecting the complexity and sophistication of the early 20th century. It exuded a timeless allure, evoking mystery through its nuanced blend of floral, spicy, and earthy notes. This fragrance captured the spirit of a world transitioning from the grand Edwardian era into the modernity of the Jazz Age, appealing to women who valued depth and refinement.
In contrast, Mystère by Rochas, launched in 1978, arrived at a time when the fragrance industry was moving towards more sophisticated and sometimes more intense compositions. Rochas' Mystère carried a distinctively different sensibility, typically associated with the vibrant, bold trends of the 1970s, characterized by more overtly floral and sweeter, richer notes. While both fragrances were intended to evoke mystery, their interpretations of this concept were shaped by the cultural and olfactory trends of their respective times.
Thus, while the shared name links the two, the perfumes themselves reflect the very different eras and aesthetics in which they were created, each capturing the essence of its time in unique and compelling ways.
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