Launched in 1935, Trophée by D’Orsay evokes an air of elegance, sophistication, and triumph. The name "Trophée," derived from the French language, translates to "trophy" in English. Pronounced "troh-FAY", the word conjures images of victory, achievement, and celebration. It evokes the glimmer of polished metal, the weight of accomplishment, and the joy of being recognized. The choice of this name reflects a desire to imbue the fragrance with an aura of prestige and exclusivity, appealing to women who sought to align themselves with these ideals.
The promotional description of Trophée enhances this sense of luxury and versatility: "D’Orsay’s hauntingly lovely Trophée...the thrilling new fragrance destined to bring magic into your life! Versatile, glamorous Trophée - that nestles into furs...snuggles in satins...adds zest to your tweeds!" Such evocative language transports us to the 1930s, a decade marked by significant societal and cultural shifts.
The 1930s were shaped by the aftermath of the Great Depression and the growing tensions leading up to World War II. Despite economic challenges, glamour and escapism remained central to the decade's culture. This was the Golden Age of Hollywood, where stars like Greta Garbo and Joan Crawford epitomized elegance and sophistication. Fashions transitioned from the flapper style of the 1920s to a more refined silhouette with bias-cut gowns, tailored tweeds, and furs. Eveningwear embraced sumptuous fabrics like satin and velvet, while daywear for women included practical yet stylish ensembles reflecting their increasing roles in society.
In this context, Trophée would have appealed to the modern woman of the time, someone who balanced practicality with a desire for glamour. The idea of a fragrance that could "nestle into furs" and "add zest to tweeds" mirrored the duality of their lives—luxurious evenings at the theatre or opera juxtaposed with the functionality of tailored suits for daytime activities. The suggestion of wearing Trophée with tweeds and sports clothes also reflected the 1930s trend toward leisurewear and outdoor activities.
Trophée’s composition as a warm leathery floral fragrance aligned with the period’s fascination with bold, complex scents. Exotic flowers layered over Russian leather and a chypre base would have created a sensual and sophisticated aroma. Russian leather, known for its smoky, resinous quality, brought an air of mystery and depth to the composition, while the chypre base added a classic, structured elegance. The floral notes likely included rose, jasmine, and other opulent blooms, adding a feminine and exotic touch to balance the fragrance’s robust leather accord.
The name "Trophée" interpreted in scent captures the duality of triumph and refinement. It is a fragrance that embodies both strength and femininity, offering a warm, embracing quality that "snuggles" into fabrics while exuding the confidence of an achievement won. The leathery notes evoke durability and power, while the florals add a touch of sensuality and grace.
By the mid-1930s, fragrances with rich, bold compositions were en vogue. The use of Russian leather, chypre bases, and exotic florals was not entirely unique, as other perfumes of the time, such as Guerlain’s Vol de Nuit (1933) and Chanel’s Cuir de Russie (1924), also explored similar themes. However, Trophée distinguished itself through its evocative marketing and its association with versatility, offering a fragrance that could transition from day to evening and from tweeds to satins.
In an era where perfumes often carried symbolic meanings, Trophée resonated with women as a representation of their aspirations, achievements, and personal style. It was more than a fragrance; it was a companion to the modern, empowered woman, adding an air of magic, sophistication, and triumph to every facet of her life.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a warm leathery floral fragrance for women. Exotic flowers layered over Russian leather and a chypre base. Meant to be worn with tweeds and sports clothes.
- Top notes: bergamot, lemon, aldehydes, neroli, galbanum, cinnamon, cardamom, lily of the valley
- Middle notes: clove, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, violet, orris root, carnation, tuberose, orange blossom, hyacinth
- Base notes: Russian leather, ambergris, musk, oakmoss, labdanum, sandalwood, patchouli, birch tar, civet, vanilla, vetiver, cedar, styrax
Vogue, 1936:
"D'Orsay Trophee. With sobriety, movement and the joy of sports competitions. And sweet is the victory."
Marie-Claire, 1937:
"Trophee by D'Orsay: warm. Dominant note: Russian leather and flowers. For the lover...'the thirty-year-old woman'...who can be from twenty-five to forty-five. Phèdre or Anna Karenina."
L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Trophée by D'Orsay: magnificent and sweet smell that affirms the victory of the woman. Bundle of precious leathers for a brunette with a golden face, it is also a perfume that brings beauty in its wake."
Combat, 1955:
"Trophee by D'Orsay is an evening fragrance. Its scents of Russian leather and tropical flowers marry admirably with furs and the atmosphere of social evenings."
Scent Profile:
As I experience Trophée by D’Orsay, each note unfolds like a rich tapestry, weaving a story of sophistication and depth, evoking the elegance of the 1930s.
The initial burst greets me with the crisp brightness of bergamot and lemon, their sharp citrus tang softened by a subtle sweetness. The effect is invigorating, like sunlight piercing through morning mist. A hint of aldehydes adds a fizzy sparkle, creating an airy effervescence that dances lightly on the skin. Then comes the lush, honeyed warmth of neroli, radiating an orange-blossom glow that feels both luminous and tender.
An earthy green bitterness from galbanum punctuates the sweetness, grounding the opening with a resinous depth. Cinnamon and cardamom trail closely, their spicy richness lending an exotic allure. As this opening symphony begins to settle, a whisper of delicate lily of the valley emerges—a dewy, floral sweetness that balances the robust spices and crisp citrus, hinting at the complexity to come.
The heart of Trophée unfolds in full bloom, an opulent bouquet of florals that swirls together in a symphony of color and texture. Rose takes center stage, deep and velvety, with its unmistakable romantic elegance. It is entwined with the heady, creamy sweetness of jasmine and the exotic richness of ylang-ylang, their interplay creating a sultry and intoxicating aura.
A spicy burst of clove and carnation lends a fiery depth, their slightly medicinal undertones balanced by the powdery softness of orris root and the green, fresh accents of hyacinth. The lush, waxy scent of tuberose adds a narcotic creaminess, while violet brings a whisper of sweet earthiness. Rounding out the heart is a delicate touch of orange blossom, offering a radiant sweetness that lifts the florals into a harmonious balance.
As the florals begin to soften, the base emerges, wrapping me in a warm, enveloping embrace. The smoky, resinous intensity of Russian leather anchors the fragrance, its rugged elegance softened by the animalic warmth of civet and ambergris. Oakmoss and patchouli provide an earthy depth, their green, woody nuances creating a chypre framework that feels timeless and sophisticated.
The base grows richer with the balsamic sweetness of labdanum and vanilla, their comforting warmth balanced by the smoky austerity of birch tar and vetiver. The smooth, creamy elegance of sandalwood and cedar adds layers of refinement, while the faintly medicinal tang of styrax lingers in the background, adding intrigue. A subtle muskiness ties all the elements together, creating a lingering sillage that feels both powerful and feminine.
Trophée is a fragrance of contrasts: bright and dark, soft and bold, luxurious and grounded. It unfolds like a story, each note revealing a new chapter of complexity and charm. It is a scent that conjures images of fur-lined coats, tailored tweeds, and evenings at the opera—a fragrance designed to complement the strength and elegance of the women who wore it. It feels timeless, embodying both the sophistication of its era and the enduring allure of a classic, leathery floral masterpiece.
Bottles:
The Trophée perfume bottle, crafted by Baccarat (model #757) for D'Orsay, exudes elegance and refinement, embodying the sophistication of its era. The bottle's unique pillow-shaped silhouette is both graceful and timeless, seamlessly blending form and function. Its front bears a white die-cut label, understated yet refined, a hallmark of D'Orsay's attention to detail. The opaque white glass stopper, adorned with an intaglio of the D'Orsay coat of arms, adds a touch of regal charm, symbolizing the brand's rich heritage. Please note that this bottle also came in a frosted glass stopper, rather than the white glass stopper. A yellow and white striped grosgrain ribbon would have tied the stopper to the bottle, a delicate detail that completes its luxurious presentation.
The base of the bottle is meticulously polished to a mirror finish, a hallmark of Baccarat’s exceptional craftsmanship. Depending on its production date, the base may or may not display the iconic Baccarat logo, as bottles made before 1936 typically lacked this mark.
The presentation is further elevated by the casket-shaped box, which is as exquisite as the bottle it houses. The box is crafted from a striking deep yellow, glossy, ribbed paper, contrasted by a cream-colored, textured center panel that adds depth and visual interest. At the center of the cover, the fragrance name and D'Orsay coat of arms are embossed, lending a touch of prestige. The interior is lined with the same glossy yellow paper, ensuring the bottle is cradled in elegance. A matching die-cut label with the maker's name is prominently displayed on the front center of the box's bottom, reinforcing the attention to branding and detail.
The bottle was produced in three sizes, catering to a range of preferences and occasions. This combination of exquisite design, impeccable craftsmanship, and thoughtful presentation makes the Trophée bottle not only a vessel for fragrance but also a work of art—a cherished piece for collectors and a testament to D'Orsay's dedication to beauty and luxury.
- The smallest bottles masures just 1" tall.
- The medium sized bottle measures 1 5/8" high x 2 5/8" wide x 2.5" thick, I believe it holds 1.5 oz of parfum.
- The largest bottle measures 1.75" high x 3" wide x 3" thick, I believe it holds 2.9 oz parfum.
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Other Bottles:
Eve, 1936:
"D'ORSAY have an enchanting new odor called "Trophee" to go with their popular "Le Dandy" and "Toujours Fidele" odors. The perfumes are packaged specially in gem-like little crystal flacons. The case itself, exactly like a handsome cigarette case, comes in white metal with gold D'Orsay crest, and in brushed gold contrasted with shiny gold crest. Sleek and thin enough to slip into the purse, it grand for carrying with you, or packing in an overnight bag; in addition, it makes a knockout cigarette case (large enough for about fifteen of your favorite brand) when the perfumes have gone the way of all flesh."
Fate of the Fragrance:
Discontinued, date unknown. I believe it was discontinued in the 1950s.
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